Glacier National Park Day 6: Canoeing, A Splurge, And A Reflection

Day six, our last day in Glacier, started around mid-morning- Bob and I were so wiped out by our Quartz Lake escapade that we discarded our proposed day six hike and slept in. Once we woke up, we had a nice long, unhurried breakfast and contemplated our adventure for the day. Even under the shade of the trees that encircled our campsite, the day was hot and sticky, so Bob and I agreed on a quick jaunt down the Rocky Point Nature Trail to catch a stunning view of Lake McDonald before heading to Apgar Village to rent a canoe.

Rocky Point was less than a mile form our campground, and the view was as magnificent as promised by our guidebook (a welcome fact as our faith in its author had been a bit shaken the day before). Lake McDonald spread out around us, stretching on for mile after splendid mile, and giving everything surrounding it an added glow. Surprisingly the trail, point, and the hidden beach which lies near the beginning of the trail- all of which are so close to areas heavily trafficked by humans- were unpopulated. We did try to become friends with a native woodpecker, but though I was very interested in photographing him, he seemed disdainful of my attempts and we soon passed him by to head to Apgar Village.

Canoe or Kayak is a sometimes tension fraught question between Bob and I. Bob prefers canoes, while I prefer the feeling of independence gained in a kayak. However, for this particular trip, Bob and I agreed to try a canoe, and I have to admit the experience was rather rewarding. Though canoeing always feels less natural to me than kayaking, it does force you listen to your partner, and by the end of the 5 mile paddling adventure Bob and I had fallen into a natural shared rhythm that I found quite enjoyable. 

Canoeing, like Kayaking, is exhausting, so we took a break on the hidden beach we had stumbled upon earlier. We lazed on the rocky shore which our bodies half submerged by each incoming wave, and just enjoyed the true splendor that surrounded us. We finally acknowledged that our stomachs were demanding our return to Apgar, so Bob taught me how to correctly return the beached canoe to the water and we headed back towards more crowded beaches.

We ended our canoe trip by splurging and going on a 'date' to one of the restaurants in the village, and oh my goodness fried/greasy food was such a shock after eating cereal, sandwiches, and Cliff bars for the previous four days! My tummy was completely unsure if it wanted to cry or shout for joy as I gobbled down fry after delicious fry. We wrapped up our splurge by purchasing delicious ice cream cones, which we gobbled up as we lounged on the lake shore and watched the colors bleed away and change as the sun set behind us. Exhausted, stuffed, and happy we crawled into our sleeping bags and drifted to sleep lulled by the sound of the wind in the trees one last time.

Going to Glacier this summer was probably one of the best ideas I have had in a long while. I didn't realize at the time that Bob and I committed to the trip, but Glacier taught me so much about myself. I learned and explored at every stage- the planning, during the trip itself, and now as the experience sinks in and the lessons really come to light. Glacier brought Bob and I closer, but it also brought me closer to my core self. It reminded me of my own strengths and weaknesses, and pushed me to achieve more than I thought I could. It reminded me of silence, of the difference between being lonely and being alone, and the power and joy that comes from understanding that difference. Glacier illustrated how much I rely on those close to me, and yet it also forced me to understand how independently strong I can be.

As I've urged in a previous post:

Dare to dream. Dare to explore.

Go and do.

You never know what lessons are waiting for you.

-AK

Missed Days 1-5? Never fear- links are below!!

Day 1  

Day 2

Day 3   

Day 4

Day 5

Glacier National Park Day 5: When Feeling Lost in Grizzly Territory... (July 9, 2014)

When feeling lost in Grizzly territory, on an overgrown trail, all alone and unable to get cell reception, there is only one thing you can do- take a deep breath, look at your hiking partner and be glad you aren't alone, readjust your pack, and keep on walking. 

That's one of the lessons I learned while hiking the Quartz Lake trail. Other lessons I learned while climbing over fallen trees and fighting through the brush that was attempting to reclaim the trail were as follows:

1) You can push your body farther than pain and exhaustion may make you believe. 

2) The "Ants Go Marching" song is a great song to sing while hiking, and you get bonus points for making up the verses on the spot.

3) A good sense of humor is incredibly helpful when you are suffering from self-inflicted pain. 

Exhibit A

4) THE HIKING GUIDE IS NOT ALWAYS RIGHT!

The authors are most likely intelligent and experienced hikers, but they may have written their review of a trail years earlier, so (especially on the less popular trails) take their reviews with a small grain of salt.  

5) Take the beauty and the few quiet moments on the trail and store them in your heart to carry you through the unpleasant ones. The ability to do so may turn the hike from total hell to a beautiful, painful hike that made a great learning experience (and a great story) later. 

It wasn't that the trail wasn't beautiful, or that the lakes disappointing, it was more a question of two relatively new hikers letting their inexperience show by attempting a hike they hadn't really researched and didn't schedule enough time for. It was also an example of someone (who may or may not be writing this blog now) "knowing" that they could do the full trail even though they were running late, and while that ended up being correct, the time limits forced us to hurry through a trail that was already rather difficult and limited our ability to appreciate the true wilderness we were stumbling through (whoops!). As I have said, the Quartz Lake Trail has become a great story and a great learning experience. I don't think I'd hike it again, but for me, it was worth the pain and fear to learn I had greater limits than I previously knew and what NOT to do when tackling an unfamiliar trail. 

Adieu and Safe Travels,

AK 

If you missed the other Glacier adventures, never fear! Links are below!

 Day 1  

Day 2

Day 3   

Day 4

Glacier National Park Day 4: River Gorges, Clear Lakes, and Waterfalls (July 8, 2014)

The trail to Avalanche Lake is one of the most popular, and hence the busiest, in the park. Part of its draw is likely due to the Trail of Cedars, a lovely short jaunt that is entirely wheelchair accessible and is the introductory trail to get to Avalanche Lake. However, after walking the paths myself, I think it is safe to say that the relative ease and accessibility of the hike are not the main reasons for its popularity.  No, in my mind the trail's popularity can be attributed more to the following: 

1) Avalanche Gorge- within minutes of beginning the hike, the trail opens up and follows Avalanche Gorge.  An absolutely breathtaking sight, the Gorge is composed of dark rocks covered in blankets of soft green moss, which contrast with the frothing light blue river that constantly rushes past. Words can't do it justice- let's suffice to say that I spent probably well over a half an hour shooting the gorge on the way up to the lake and quite a few more on the way back. 

2) The Trail itself- A relatively easy hike, the trail weaves up and down through beautiful woods, opening up occasionally to allow views of towering cliffs and temporary waterfalls fed by the snow-melt above. 

3) Avalanche Lake- this seems obvious, since the lake is your destination, but goodness let me tell you, if Avalanche Gorge takes one's breath away than I don't know how to accurately describe the beauty that is Avalanche Lake. Crystal clear, relatively shallow in most areas, but turning a brilliant rich blue as it plunges to unknown depths, Avalanche Lake is a vision in its own right. Yet its beauty is not limited to its waters, for it is surrounded on three sides by towering cliffs adorned with waterfalls and clad in a rich blanket of evergreens. 

A scene from a Romantic era painting, the lake has only one downfall- it is so gosh darn popular that peaceful reflection upon its loveliness is only possible if one finds a way to block out the screams of children and the chattering of your many (many) fellow hikers. We went after the noontime hour, and the shore was packed, but I think that perhaps a morning trip would allow for more peaceful viewing. 

Clear lakes, stunning gorges, crystal waterfalls, and beautiful forest views. How can one not love Avalanche Lake? 

Happy Trails,

AK

If you missed the other Glacier adventures, never fear! Links are below!

 Day 1  

Day 2

Day 3

Day 5